Sunday, 14 October 2018

RockArchivist: Pete's Eats 1978-1983

It's taken me a while to figure out how to deal with the old new route books since I closed down the RockArchivist web site. The easiest way to deal with them is to create a simple video of each one and just publish the videos individually on YouTube, so that's the plan moving forwards.

As with all of these videos, view full screen and use the pause button to stop the video to read the page.

This first offering is the new route book from Pete's Eats in Llanberis ranging from 1978 to 1983. Some historic first ascents included in this book - A Midsummer Night's Dream, Lord of the Flies, The Axe, The Atomic Finger Flake, Strawberries... It also sees the first developments by Andy Pollitt and Jerry Moffatt and starts to chart the major developments at Pen Trwyn and North Wales limestone.

One interesting page actually isn't in the book - the original write up of Redhead's 'Tormented Ejaculation' on Cloggy. Instead there is a replacement page where 'persons unknown' removed the original. A few pages further on however Tormented Ejaculation is resurrected by Redhead and given a grade of E8 7a. Big numbers for the time, and probably well-deserved!

The first few pages of this book all seem to be written in the late Paul Williams' handwriting. Why Paul did this I don't know but maybe we was transcribing from somewhere else, but no idea what. Zippy did the same with one of the Stoney cafe books in the mid 1980s; that'll be online in the next few weeks too.




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